Last month I travelled to Melbourne for the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival and attended the Council of Textile & Fashion's (CTF) Curated Melbourne's Pop-Up shop event.
It was there that I was fortunate enough to hear Jenny Layton speak.
Jenny is co-founder and former director of The Ark Clothing Co., an Australian-made women's wear label that she launched with fashion designer and pattern maker Christine Metcalfe in 1990. She also serves as a board member for the Council of Textile & Fashion.
Prior to establishing The Ark, Jenny ran Reflections Gallery for 10 years where she exhibited and promoted the artwork of emerging Australian artists. The gallery was later sold around the time she started a family.
Now according to the CTF Curated website, Jenny and Christine founded the fashion business with a "contribution of $200 of “housekeeping” money and morphed into a company with a large turnover and no debt" eventually selling the business in 2016.
Absolutely remarkable. I have many designer friends and am also involved in several start-up businesses, so I know what it takes to grow a business and to do so with such a small amount of capital is unheard of!
So I'm glad to have had the foresight to record Jenny's public talk at the Curated Melbourne event. She has over 26 years industry experience, is dedicated to the Australian fashion industry and has a passion for helping emerging designers - attributes I think all business mentors in the fashion industry should have!
Plus we featured The Ark Clothing Co. in last year's round-up post of Australian ethical fashion online stores, which was extremely popular with our readers and to this day, continues to be one of the most frequently visited pages on the site.
So here's the transcript of Jenny Layton talk at the CTF Curated event (edited to keep it as succinct as possible). If you're an emerging designer, I hope it brings you comfort and inspires you to keep going...
"When Chris and I started 25 odd years ago, we were on the kitchen table and we were rolling fabric under the beds and popping the kids to sleep. I got into fashion because of Chris’ skill and a bit of a design passion.
At that time it was miserable trying to find out how you got anything made, who you would go to, and where you could buy good fabric. We used to pal up to agency and they'd say This silk's been really popular and we'd say Oh really but who sews silk? We'd try to find little threads and follow them through.
It was quite slow and steady growth - but it was great fun. Because Chris and I always had interns and loved to sponsor and mentor designers - we were so excited when one of our staff would leave and say I’m going to start my own business! and we’d say:
"What can we do? This is going to be fabulous great go for it!"
And I think that’s never left us. We just think this industry needs to keep rolling forward… It was young designers coming to Dave [Dave Giles-Kaye, President of The Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia (TFIA)] saying We can’t survive on our own; Is there anyone else out there that feels the same way? and of course everybody feels the same way. It is tough.
We’ve got a changing landscape. We’ve got massive labels coming in with umpteen millions of dollars behind them when they want to start something up.
"They just take the best piece of real estate and do it over, and where does the small emerging designer fit in?"
Well you do fit in [speaking directly to the designers in the audience]. And one of the great things is Curated is probably something that Chris and I would have loved in our day because we would have felt like there were other people suffering and torturing themselves with late nights at the machines at 2am in the morning, and our mothers sewing buttons while we took them on holidays to Noosa so we could have all the overalls finished!
That is what is so fantastic about this that in a very short time when we’ve had a few meetings with all the designers together, industry has been fantastic and for those of you here people like Brauz [new shopping app] and others who have been fantastic in coming on board.
It is so lovely to know that people are willing to get behind people who are needing support and it’s just nice to know that financially, there might be a possibility of pooling together your resources… and building a bit of a brand and getting the confidence and maybe having the cash flow to then go and take something to the next level.
"So I just wanted to say to everyone out there - go for it!"
I remember the first time we could pay ourselves a salary, that was seriously exciting! I can’t wait to hear how everyone goes and I think with Dave heading up the Council of Textiles and Fashion and the board and just the group of people all coming on board is fantastic.
[Referring to the pop-up shop downstairs] Just go down and have a look because what you’re looking at is blood, sweat and tears, ambition, potential, creativity and passion.
So make sure that if you like something, buy it because that is the best drug for a designer."